Wednesday, 14 March 2012

Kaikai and Kumara

"Kaikai" is the Pijin word meaning 'eat' or 'food'. What does the average Solomon Islander kaikai you ask?

Well, the simplest answer to that would be Kumara.  Kumara, kumara and rice and rice more kumara and rice. 

When I was in Dadala I ate with the family and naturally, then, ate what they ate. (Which was more often than not kumara- SURPRISE!) There is a traditional order of eating  here; guests first, then the men, then women and lastly the children. So, as culture has it, I found myself eating first (usually joined by the men though) while the women of the house sat waiting and watching. Even though I was not surprised about this, as I had experienced the same tradition when at a homestay in Samoa, it still was slightly uncomfortable for me. Despite this family being seemingly more loving and gracious to all family members (as compared to other families I have heard about), there is still a visible hierarchy.



Eating my last meal with the family
This family has actually built a separate dining house, with a big table. (I don't think this is very common here- especially in a village!) So this is where we ate many of our meals. Although on occasion, particularly later in the evening, after dark, I would eat straight in their kitchen. (Which, despite it being having a dirt floor and fire pit for a stove, is very big- even for North American standards!) The last meal I had with the family before I boarded my ferry back to Dadala, Mary and Mamai (who were the only women around at the time) sat and ate with me and the men at the table (after some coaxing) and that was nice.

Back to kumara though. (Can't get away from it!) If you don't know, kumara is a sweet potato. And if I hadn't made it clear, they eat a lot of it here in the Solomons. I don't think I can stress that enough.

However, they DO have a few other things for kaikai. They have pana, which is similar to kumara but a bit less starchy, along with a number of other root veggies like yams and taro. Quick note; I don't particularly have a problem with root veggies, (I don't think I'm allowed to be seeing as my father is a potato farmer- even though that fact has could also lead to me having a massive problem with root veggies- but that is a totally separate rant for another time. I digress..) honestly I don't. My issue is that they are only cooked in a limited number of ways. They either boil them in water/coconut milk or bake them in their traditional ovens (aka wrapped in big leafs and placed in the middle of a pile of hot stones) and then served plain. I really did love  the kumara/pana soup they made with coconut milk, onions and salt. (Although it would be STELLAR with a little corn and bacon!! Mmmm bacon!)

Another staple in a Solomon's kitchen is rice. Of course, isn't a traditional food here (brought in with the Weatman- the Asian's are considered to be Weatman as well FYI) , but nevertheless it is very popular here. Usually served plain (surprise!), but if there are some chicken or beef noodles around you may be served your rice with noodles on-top (often with some beans or onions mixed in as well)



A Solomon "piknik" which the family (and seemingly half the village) so graciously made for us! We went to a separate little island about a 10 minute canoe ride from Dadala, where the family is in the process of building homestay facilities.
Fish, (or "Phish" if you are Dadi Henry who constantly mixed up his 'P's' and 'F's'- pretty cute actually!) is another thing  I ate "staka" (much) of! Being from a province that is totally land-locked and decently far from the ocean, fish isn't exactly the first thing on my favourite list. But I must admit that fresh fish is pretty darn tasty! Although I couldn't quite bring myself to eat the fish soup and defiantly not the eyes of the fish.

Of course you can't forget the fresh fruit; pineapple, papaya, mangoes, bananas, star fruit and the like! SOOO good. SOOO sweet and DELICIOUS!! Yum. I could go on about this almost as long as kumara, but I will restrain my emotions this time. 

I don't mean to complain or disregard  another culture's food (because I seriously have enjoyed some great food here), but after a week of meal after meal of kumara, pana, rice, noodles and fish; I was very excited to return to my pasta, buns, bread and CHEESE!! I'm giving myself a week free of kumara before I allow myself to consume any more. (Which is actually ending tomorrow I've just realized! I don't know if I'm mentally prepared for this though…)

While on the topic of food, I must mention a little problem that one must face while cooking in this country. Ants. These little buggers get into freekin' everything!! Upon returning to the base and acquiring various ingredients for my kitchen, I too soon learned the importance of putting things in handy dandy tupperware. I've also learned that the best way to get a bazillion ants out of your muesli or sugar is to place it in the hot sun! I've also learned to accept the fact that regardless of how hard you try, it is inevitable that you will still consume ants in any given meal.

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